of memoirs and musings

The second edition of the Schmap Barcelona Guide was recently released and one of my two photos from the first edition still made the cut. My shot of the Blue Grotto's entrance on Capri Island (below) also retained its inclusion in the Schmap Naples Guide 2nd ed. Apparently there were twice as many submissions in the selection pool for both second editions.

(Left) Via Laietana, home to Xurreria Laietana where you can find the most delicious churros con chocolate in Barcelona. Have it with a glass of cafe latte and attempt a Catalan conversation with the guy behind the counter as the smell of freshly-fried churros wafts and spills into the busy Catalonian street outside.

After a two hours-long trek from Anacapri down the cliffs dotted with magnificent villas by the sea, we came upon a scene of comedic madness as boatmen and tour operators exchange curses and shouts as they compete to take flustered tourists into the Grotta Azzurra. Only one boat at a time can pass through the entrance with the people in it lying down. The commotion continued the whole afternoon. Nonchalant old men cast their fishing lines and fat cats snoozed on the steps while suicidal backpackers jumped off the cliff. It is a wonder how they managed the tangential dive without impaling themselves on the sharp spikes below. The only near-fatality was the cat that choked on some biscuits we gave.

After the paying tourists and boats were gone, we swam in for free. Threading water outside the entrance as people emerge with cuts and gashes onto the algae-covered steps, I rued our shoestring budget and my great suggestion. With every second of hesitation, hidden sharp rocks and the narrow gap grew more menacing. Finally riding the next wave in, the adrenaline rush was pure intoxication.

So into the iridescent cave of hynoptic blue we went and out again into the crashing waves of the rising tide as the sun descended on the horizon outside. Moments later, the sight of Sugeo jubilantly pumping his fist in the air while doing some crazy frog-dolphin-chimaera-style swimming in the sea and toAdie shivering on the steps looking mighty pleased made me forget about my heart that almost froze fifteen minutes before.